357 AMP handloading

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   You are correct, the TC die should just "kiss" the lip of the case. I usually see about 1/16" witness mark. Sometimes I can barely feel the Taper Crimp. I usually measure before and after, and go by the witness mark. Usually .001-.002 is all it needs. A bullet shouldn't fall halfway or more after using the expander, it should just sit below flush, enough to start the bullet into the neck. I'm glad to hear you have the "Vintage" dies as I think they are probably the best. I could be wrong, but mine work well. I also believe I have the CH4D TC die so no issues there. Never run a cartridge back through the neck sizer with a bullet in place, It will get stuck!! Someone else may chime in with a bit more wisdom, but this is how I loaded mine and it worked. Good luck

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omie01 Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Callahan's Auto Mag Joined: 05 Feb 2012 Location: Minnesota Status: Offline Points: 635	Post Options Post Reply Quote omie01 Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 17 Dec 2018 at 1:26pm
	You are correct, the TC die should just "kiss" the lip of the case. I usually see about 1/16" witness mark. Sometimes I can barely feel the Taper Crimp. I usually measure before and after, and go by the witness mark. Usually .001-.002 is all it needs. A bullet shouldn't fall halfway or more after using the expander, it should just sit below flush, enough to start the bullet into the neck. I'm glad to hear you have the "Vintage" dies as I think they are probably the best. I could be wrong, but mine work well. I also believe I have the CH4D TC die so no issues there. Never run a cartridge back through the neck sizer with a bullet in place, It will get stuck!! Someone else may chime in with a bit more wisdom, but this is how I loaded mine and it worked. Good luck

paul v. Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List International Auto Mag Joined: 10 Mar 2008 Location: western ny Status: Offline Points: 90	Post Options Post Reply Quote paul v. Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 17 Dec 2018 at 3:38pm
	Maybe I missed this ,but what happened to reaming the cut down rifle brass(44AMP reamer) either before necking it down with the 357AMP die or reaming the neck of the rifle brass (357 reamer) formed after being necked to 357? Wouldn't keep it the necks thinner and consistent and not prone to sticking and bulging?

BEEMER1 Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Callahan's Auto Mag Joined: 06 Jan 2010 Location: iowa Status: Offline Points: 1366	Post Options Post Reply Quote BEEMER1 Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 17 Dec 2018 at 5:05pm
	I have a 357 set of form dies. Even necking down Starline brass I check it with the ream die and reamer. In my opinion, the availability of Starline brass is the biggest improvement in Auto Mags since I have been shooting them.

Luvz2Shoot Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Callahan's Auto Mag Joined: 16 Apr 2011 Location: Washington Status: Offline Points: 660	Post Options Post Reply Quote Luvz2Shoot Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 18 Dec 2018 at 8:11pm
	Well, through trial and error I have found that using various rifle brass, starline brass or CDM brass appears to makes no difference that I have been able to find. I say that, but I have also NOT reamed the brass after necking. I know what everyone has said about loading for 357AMP, I have read as much as I could on this site, but I have not been able to verify a difference. (maybe I just haven't found it yet?) I have various brass. I noticed some bullets are easier to seat than others. It makes no difference what brass it is loading into. IE: pressing bullets in brass marked "FA 67" can either be "easy" or have some resistance. The bullets seat in 308WIN brass just as easy as Starline (as the brass thickness is the same). I started from the very beginning by sizing the brass, necking the brass, verifying the brass length, seating the bullets and taper crimping, of every round as I made it. They were all within a few thousandth's of an inch. I assume that it pretty good? I loaded various dummy-rounds in various brass just to get the feel. Once they were made I checked them in my chamber. Some loaded fine, others jammed and would not allow the bolt to fully close. I measured the brass length, OAL, checked the bullet seat, checked the taper crimp (which is set at about 1/32" - 1/16". Enough of a "kiss" then maybe a skosh more?). Some rounds that measured short(er) or skinny(er) would jam when loaded. Others with longer OAL's and thicker neck and body measurements would not jam and chambered excellent. I check the brass thickness in the body of the brass to. Again, everything is within a few thousandths of an inch. Some with measured thicker bodies loaded, while some with thinner bodies would jam. I know that I have got to be missing something as there was no rhyme or reason that I could see (or measure) as to why some would jam and others would not. In all honesty too, it was getting late and as I crawled into bed I was thinking the whole time "YOU HAVE GOT TO BE MISSING SOMETHING. BUT WHAT???" I ended up with about 20+ various actual loads that loaded in my chamber. Loaded with 158gr XTP, from 18.6gr to 22.2 gr. (in 3gr increments) of H110. I will be taking those to the range hopefully tomorrow. Again, thanks for all your help and input. If you can think of anything, I am all ears!
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Ian Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Admin Group Joined: 07 Mar 2008 Location: England Status: Offline Points: 648	Post Options Post Reply Quote Ian Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 20 Dec 2018 at 9:27pm
	There is also this article from Hand Loader just for the 357. http://www.amtguns.net/articles/shooting-press/handloader/handloader-1975-january/ Ian
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Luvz2Shoot Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Callahan's Auto Mag Joined: 16 Apr 2011 Location: Washington Status: Offline Points: 660	Post Options Post Reply Quote Luvz2Shoot Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 07 Jan 2019 at 12:51am
	Well, back to the beginning.... I tore apart all the rifle brass that I formed. They are put "away". I grabbed the Starline brass that I had and started all over. As mentioned/suggested I reamed 50 rounds with the 44 reamer. After 50 rounds there was very little brass "dust". After a lot of powder load experimentation I was able to find the following cycled each round and locked open on the last round. 18.1gr of H110, using a 158gr Hornady XTP bullet. At 18.1gr the spent shells looked like there were "waves" up and down the shell. At 18.2gr the shells were fairly "clean" with little markings on the shells. At 18.3gr the shells came out real clean. The only markings appear to be on the rim where the extractor and ejector make contact with the rim and bottom of the shell. Should I leave it at 18.3gr of powder or do I keep increasing the powder until the shells come out perfectly clean with no markings? Or being 18.3gr seems real clean, just "pop" it up a couple grains and "call it good"? I only plan to take it to the range and shoot holes in paper. Maybe use it to shoot watermelon's, pumpkin's, etc. Thanks to all who have helped and gotten me to this point. I am sure a lot of other newbie's will stumble across this thread and find it useful too.
	If you were happy and you knew it, would you clap your hands?

BEEMER1 Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Callahan's Auto Mag Joined: 06 Jan 2010 Location: iowa Status: Offline Points: 1366	Post Options Post Reply Quote BEEMER1 Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 07 Jan 2019 at 1:04am
	It is whatever you are satisfied with. I settled on 19 grains but 20 shot good also. Powders have varied some through the years but those worked good for me and I would call both loadings as on the lower end. Good luck.

Luvz2Shoot Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Callahan's Auto Mag Joined: 16 Apr 2011 Location: Washington Status: Offline Points: 660	Post Options Post Reply Quote Luvz2Shoot Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 07 Jan 2019 at 2:33am
	Thanks for all the help, suggestions and advice. I've never loaded before and this has been a fun project. I can see why people say that once you shoot the 357, the 44 seems a little boring. I may just hold it at 18.5gr and just enjoy it. One other question, does H110 and W296 load the same? Or is one a little lower or higher than the other? Thanks!
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Benny123 Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List International Auto Mag Joined: 08 Jul 2018 Location: Central Status: Offline Points: 82	Post Options Post Reply Quote Benny123 Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 07 Jan 2019 at 2:47am
	Its not an acceptable practice to download this powder. In a semi auto partial ignition can be dangerous. There are other options if you want a reduced load. I think a 90% Case capacity is proposed as the minimum. W296 h110 load data are generally considered interchangeable. The exception is if you,have old lots. 300 MP from Alliant very similar albeit slight slower Just be careful

XP001 Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Callahan's Auto Mag Joined: 02 Jan 2012 Status: Offline Points: 588	Post Options Post Reply Quote XP001 Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 07 Jan 2019 at 4:15pm
	Benny, Just asking to learn. You say 90% case fill to avoid opps. I understand the reason why (another topic all together) but are you saying that the loads mentioned above at 18.3 do not met this 90%? Is it best to take the case and fill it then measure and get the 90% from that or is there already a known chart for this? Do powders measure different? Just like to learn, thanks